Stove, Range & Oven Repair
Gas and electric cooking want different instruments in the bag, so we ask which you have when the appointment is booked rather than on the doorstep.
Burners that will not light, ovens drifting off temperature, clicking that carries on after ignition and control panels that respond when they feel like it, repaired where the range already stands.
Gas, electric and dual fuel are three different jobs
A gas range is a fuel and combustion appliance and is treated as one: the igniter, the safety valve, the spark module and the burner ports are all checked as a chain rather than one at a time. An electric range is an element and control problem, and induction is neither, being closer to a power electronics repair than to cooking equipment.
That is why the first question we ask on the phone is which of the three you own. Your answer determines which parts the technician brings and how much time the appointment needs.
Professional ranges were designed to be serviced
Wolf, Viking, Thermador, DCS, Bertazzoni and La Cornue built their equipment on the assumption that somebody would come and repair it. Burners, igniters, valves and spark modules are separate replaceable components rather than sealed assemblies, and parts are still made for units well over a decade old.
It means a professional range is very often worth repairing at an age where a mainstream one would not be. We say which case you are in before quoting, and on this class of appliance the answer is usually repair.
Wall ovens and the cabinetry around them
A wall oven has to come out of its housing to be worked on properly, and the housing is frequently a custom opening with a run of cabinetry either side of it. Time to draw the appliance out and put it back square is built into the appointment.
Where an oven turns out not to be worth repairing, the opening measurement matters more than the model number, because a replacement that will not go into the hole is not a replacement. We take that measurement while we are there.
Where this work is available
We carry out stove, range & oven repair in every one of the 31 cities we serve across California, Florida, Illinois, and New York. Those cities are Pasadena, Burbank, Fullerton, Orange, Westminster, Inglewood, Culver City, Manhattan Beach, Santa Monica, West Palm Beach, Boca Raton, Coral Gables, Doral, Hialeah, Homestead, North Miami, North Miami Beach, Palm Beach Gardens, Aventura, Sunny Isles Beach, Aurora, Cicero, Evanston, Schaumburg, Skokie, Downers Grove, Orland Park, Yonkers, Staten Island, Hempstead, and Garden City. The price, the warranty, and the arrival window are identical in all of them, weekends included, and there is no travel charge within the ZIP codes listed on each city page.
Book a stove, range and oven repair
Choose the day and the part of the day. Your two hour window is confirmed straight afterwards.
What the price includes
- The appliance read and metered before a number is given
- Parts and labor quoted as a single figure
- Thirty days on our labor, printed on the invoice
- Everything left level, reconnected and running
The stove, range and oven calls we take most
Burners that will not light, ovens drifting off temperature, clicking that carries on after ignition and control panels that respond when they feel like it, repaired where the range already stands.
The oven will not reach the temperature on the dial
Put a probe on the middle shelf and run it. If the cavity settles fifty degrees under the setpoint, the element or the gas valve is the suspect; if it settles five under, the sensor is drifting and the appliance is otherwise sound. The difference between those two conclusions is one measurement and several hundred dollars, so nobody should be quoting before it is taken.
A gas burner that clicks but will not light
The igniter is glowing but no longer glowing hot enough to persuade the safety valve to open. It is the most misread thing on any gas range: the part still lights up, so it looks alive, and owners reasonably conclude the valve behind it has gone. A current draw reading settles it in a minute.
The flame will not come down for a simmer
Almost always the burner cap sitting slightly off its seat, or the low flame screw drifting out of adjustment after a deep clean. Both are cleaning and setting jobs rather than parts, and both are frequently the entire visit.
An induction zone that cuts out under load
Induction tops throttle themselves when the electronics behind the glass get hot, and the usual reason is a cooling fan choked with cooking residue rather than a board on its way out. We open it, read the temperatures under load, and only condemn a board when the readings say so.
The door glass has gone cloudy or the door sits proud
Hinges take the weight of a heavy door for years and eventually let it hang a few millimeters low, which breaks the seal at the top and lets heat and moisture into the glass sandwich. Hinges and the door seal are replaceable parts on almost every range we work on.
A control panel that has stopped responding
On a range this is worth approaching carefully, because the panel is one of the most expensive items in the appliance. In a good share of cases the panel is fine and a ribbon connector, a membrane or the power supply feeding it has gone. We meter it before ordering anything.
Which brands this applies to
The manufacturers on our list that build this appliance type. Each has a page of its own setting out how that badge behaves and what tends to go on it.
What happens on an oven or range call
Gas and electric cooking want different instruments in the bag, so we ask which one you have when the appointment is booked rather than on the doorstep.
- A two hour window, and the fuel type settled when you book
- Element, igniter and sensor readings taken cold and then hot
- Gas connections leak tested before the machine is signed off
- Thirty days of warranty on the labor, printed on your paperwork
Stove, Range & Oven Repair across four states
Identical terms in all thirty-one cities below: the same price, the same warranty, the same arrival window.
- Pasadena, CA
- Burbank, CA
- Fullerton, CA
- Orange, CA
- Westminster, CA
- Inglewood, CA
- Culver City, CA
- Manhattan Beach, CA
- Santa Monica, CA
- West Palm Beach, FL
- Boca Raton, FL
- Coral Gables, FL
- Doral, FL
- Hialeah, FL
- Homestead, FL
- North Miami, FL
- North Miami Beach, FL
- Palm Beach Gardens, FL
- Aventura, FL
- Sunny Isles Beach, FL
- Aurora, IL
- Cicero, IL
- Evanston, IL
- Schaumburg, IL
- Skokie, IL
- Downers Grove, IL
- Orland Park, IL
- Yonkers, NY
- Staten Island, NY
- Hempstead, NY
- Garden City, NY
stove, range and oven questions we are asked
Do you take on professional ranges, or only ordinary ones?
Regularly, and in Coral Gables, Santa Monica and Evanston they account for a fair share of the week. We are called out to Wolf, Viking, Thermador, DCS, Bertazzoni, and La Cornue equipment regularly. Ranges at that level were designed on the assumption that somebody would service them: burners, igniters, valves and spark modules are separate replaceable components, and parts are still made for units well over a decade old.
My oven bakes about twenty five degrees cool. Can that be corrected?
Almost always, and usually cheaply. Put a probe on the middle shelf and run a cycle. A cavity sitting twenty five under with a steady, even flame is a sensor drifting, which is an inexpensive part. A cavity fifty under with an element that never glows properly is a different repair. One measurement separates those two, which is why nobody should quote before taking it.
I can smell gas faintly near the range. What should I do?
Stop using the appliance, open a window, and call the gas utility before you call us. That order is not negotiable. Once the supply side has been declared safe, we will look at the appliance itself: burner seals, valve stems and the connection at the range are all things we work on. Anything upstream of that connection belongs to a licensed gas fitter and we will say so rather than improvise.